Style expert Lauren Goodman takes a long view of golf style, from 1800s tweeds, knickerbockers, argyle, pastel polos of 1980s prep-dominance to plastic performance wear of today.

Growing up in New England, golf was a huge part of the scenery--the plush emerald carpets stretching my eye, prestige Summer caddy jobs (the tips!), moustaches on golf shoes, pervasive polo shirts, sweater vests, argyle knee socks, and pale pink for men. 

While I may be a fashion expert, I am neither a golf, nor golf style expert. But for this foray onto the fairway, my eye takes a sweep.

The arc of golf’s trajectory–as it shows up on the players–covers a wide swath of sartorial and sporting-minded choices. Picked up by British royals in 1502 in Scotland, the gear was formal.

Tweed tailoring and stiff shirting restricted and warmed players through the 19th century. Knickerbockers, anyone? Knickers (also called plus-fours, for four inches below the knee) peaked after Edward Prince of Wales wore a pair Stateside on the course in 1924. PGA legend Payne Stewart kept the balloon leg trousers alive and relevant through the 1980s and 90s. Like Tintin, Outkast’s Andre 3000 made the abbreviated tweeds part of his dapper image.

The 1940s-70s were decades when the polo and cotton pants (full length), or shorts came fore. This khaki and collared uniform crossed over from the course to life. Arnold Palmer in his well-tailored fits showed us how it was done. He was fetch in a cashmere cardigan. The pro even donned a mock-neck before they were commercially available. Of sartorial note, the legendary athlete belted his waist discretely–no chunky straps or buckles. (Discuss.) While Palmer indulged in a plaid pant on occasion, the pro dressed mostly in complementary–and flattering–solids. David Duval also got this right–albeit with different proportions. His all black look is fit for a Pharrell runway.

In the 1980s, golf’s sharp and elegant uniform faded into the blurred lines of a preppy pastel sunset. Expressionist splashes on baggy polos bobbed like jellyfish.

Tiger Woods tightened the game in the late 90s. Woods’ superstar-status oxygenated golf and attracted younger audiences. He brought an athlete’s mentality (and look) to the weekend sport. In 2001, with a renewed Nike contract (for $100 million), the 24 year old prodigy reset golf’s uniform forever. Fitted athletic wear and technical fabrics were here to stay. Peak Tiger: White mockneck, grey cashmere vest (with Nike Swoosh), and grey tailored pants—subtle plaid, relaxed fit. How 90s does it get? 

Tiger marks the dawn of golf’s performance era. A quarter century later, we are still here.

Progressively, since 2001, performance wear on the golf course went from novel to the norm. Breathable technical everything is giving microplastic claustrophobia. 

PGA regulars like Keith Mitchell have taken notice. The Tennessee pro approached the tailor Sid Mashburn to wardrobe him. Now dubbed “Cashmere Keith,” Mitchell is touted as the best dressed player on the tour. Loro Piana uniforms the European team for the Ryder Cup. Letting old technology (aka linen, cotton, and wool) perform. 

From its origins, golf is a gentleman’s (and lady’s) sport. Not to mention: “Business happens in these spaces,” says George ODell, an art dealer and “aspiring golfer” in Litchfield County, CT. “You want to look professional and be taken seriously. To go to a restaurant or the clubhouse and look just fine.” This speaks to the athleisure genre of golf gear—hoodies, joggers and too loud logos. “If you are wearing head to toe Peter Millar in the office on Friday, I am not investing in your fund,” said ODell. Multiple men also shared in interviews that wives refused to countenance tight plastic golf outfits off the course. Last but not least is quality and durability. “Can I buy better and less of it?,” ODell asks. 

Golf is a centuries old game played in nature. Players literally touch grass. Dignity, sportsmanship, respect and grace are long on the green. Is your kit? Yes to natural fabrics and breathability. Yes to mocknecks. Yes to nature as technology.

Bio: Lauren Goodman is a stylist and writer whose work has appeared in Vogue, W, Vanity Fair, Esquire and T Magazine. Goodman launched the WSJ’s Off Duty section, where she served as Fashion Director. She held the same title at Wired, NOWNESS, Elle Magazine, and domino. Goodman is based in Marin County and travels regularly for work and pleasure.